Patagonia: The Plan
Word of the Day: Salto
Noun. The Chilean word for waterfall. Most of the Spanish-speaking world makes use of the words “cascada” or “catarata,” but, as I would soon learn, Chileans rarely do anything in the common way.
While I just told you that “salto” means waterfall, it is also a form of the word “saltar,” which, more universally in the Spanish language, means “jump.” And that’s what this trip was for me–a jump. Perhaps you could even call it a leap of faith, as my only backpacking experience dated back to a decade-old jaunt at Girl Scout camp. To be fair, since I was a nerd growing up, I am unfazed by heavy backpacks, but Patagonia is something else entirely.
There is a whole lot that can be said about Patagonia, but here are the main things that you need to know before you go:
#1: Find a good pair of boots (WATERPROOF HIGHLY PREFERRED) AND be sure to break them in beforehand.
Feet, in principle, are weird. It can’t be a coincidence that all sorts of detestable words have sprung up around the concept of feet–splayed, toejam, blisters, and bunions. Eugh. Maybe I am biased given that I have the constantly-aching, busted feet of a ninety-year-old that resist the siren song of legitimate doctors and Dr. Scholls alike. That being said, my feet are my favorite means of conveyance–and generally the most reliable (no offense to my Hyundai). But, honestly, Patagonia was almost the death of them. Make sure that you make buying and breaking in the right pair of boots your #1 priority.
#2: Plan ahead. And devise at least one contingency plan as well.
We chose to complete a rather ambitious 5-day West-to-East itinerary on the W trail. In Patagonia shorthand, that’s a counter-clockwise itinerary. Please note that, based on the time of year and your traveling style, I might advise a few modifications to be below, but the bones are the same:
Day 1: Enter the park, ride the catamaran, and sleep at Refugio Grey. Read more
Day 2: Take a boat to Glacier Grey, hike all over it, and then hurry south to Refugio Paine Grande. Read more
Day 3: Hike the European Valley (in and out), then continue along the trail to Refugio Los Cuernos. Read more
Day 4: Meander down the trail to reach Hotel Las Torres (there’s a Refugio there as well). Read more
Day 5: Hike up to Las Torres, snap the most iconic of Patagonia pictures, and then finish the trail. Read more
As a normal human, you may be able to dispense with a contigency plan entirely. However, when planning is left to me, a short day hike in Pennsylvania can be disrupted by an anomalous tornado. With this terrifying episode in mind, if you’re like me and you’re allergic to planning (or if planning is allergic to you), be sure to find someone else to help you account for what you will do if there is a blizzard or a cloudburst or something equally unexpected. Having your options clear in your head helps.
NOTE: If you plan on staying at refugios, it is an absolute MUST for you to reserve ahead.
#3: Do not trust the weather.
At one point on the trail, we went from sun to fog to gale-force winds in fewer than ten minutes. I repeat, do not trust the weather. I made do without hiking poles, but other people I met on the trail swear by them. It’s up to you, but the tradeoff of carrying them the entire time was not worth the few moments where the extra stability would have been useful.
#4: Bring cash.
It doesn’t matter what currency, though obviously the more standard it is (e.g., Chilean peso, USD), the better off you will be. The modern world has not quite reached Patagonia yet, and you never know when you will need money — and there were certainly no credit card swipers the last time that I checked.
#5: Snacks are worth their weight in gold.
After days on the trail, you will soon find that previously-mundane snacks taste more delicious than anything else in the world. The food that is provided at refugios is hearty, but it’s the rare Cheez-It or Buncha Crunch that you eat at an overlook that is the most memorable.
Also, for tea drinkers out there: most refugios provide hot water for free but charge for tea bags or coffee. You can circumvent this unnecessary charge by bringing your own.
#6: Make some trail friends.
Believe it or not, the people who choose to use their hard-earned vacations to trample all over Patagonia are a pretty hardy and interesting bunch. In fact, I still correspond with one of the Finnish girls that I met on the trail.
And if it feels like you keep seeing the same people over and over again — that’s by design. Patagonia lacks a formal Search and Rescue team, so they tend to try to crowd-source everyone’s safety using the buddy system. And, in this small corner of the world, it is surprisingly effective.
Are you ready to take the “salto” to plan your Patagonia trip? Or are you a seasoned veteran? Let us know below.